Bratislava - Europe’s Cinderella

Charming Wall

I was up on deck early as we sailed into Bratislava, you could see the city for some distance – high on a hill to the north, the Castle guards the city, like the perfect gleaming wedding cake. A newer shape, the ‘UFO’ Observation Tower, dominates the river skyline atop the New Bridge, the world’s largest single-pylon suspension bridge. Bratislava sits on the Danube and has been fought over by its neighbours through the centuries. But this city has risen from the 20^th Century, as capital of Slovakia since the Velvet Divorce when Czechoslovakia overthrew the Communist regime and peacefully split in two.

Castle on the Hill

We dock and head into the city with our local guide, Andrea. As we step onto land we cannot avoid the large Soviet style statue. When the Communists seized Slovakia in 1948 they decreed that all monuments celebrating religion (Virgin Mary) or imperialism (the Hapsburgs) be removed and replaced with celebrations of workers or culture. Thus, this monument that honours Ludovit Stur, a 19^th Century leader of the Slovak language revival, overpowers this small square.

Ludovit Stur

Most of the old town is pedestrian only; this allows you to walk calmly through the city and we move on to Hviezdoslav Square, named for the famed Slovak poet. This is a large historic square bordered by trees and features restaurant patios, hotels, fountains, and the Old Slovak National Theatre. Off to one side is a small church – the focal point of the 25 March 1988 Candle Demonstration. 5,000 people gathered in front of this building holding candles to peacefully press the Communist government for more religious freedom. They were brutally repressed by police using batons and water cannon while Czechoslovakian leaders watched from the adjacent Carlton Hotel. A small semi-spherical memorial commemorates this event, standing modestly in the shadow of the ‘Statue of Liberty’ a monument to the 1948 Soviet Army invasion that annexed the country. The demonstration, a pivotal point in the overthrow of communism 18 months later, is still observed every 25 March.

Candle Semi-sphere bottom left

There are a lot of small statues in the old town. We encountered Man At Work just north of the Square; ‘Cumil (the Watcher)’ in Slovak, is positioned in a manhole where he looks into the street. Under the Austro-Hungarian Empire only the rich could promenade around the town idly, and observing them was a local fascination. But under the Soviets, everyone kept on the move, with their heads down – attracting attention would risk arrest. He was installed in 1997 as part of Bratislava’s old town renovation, attempting to recapture its spirit and whimsy. Other statues from the renovation include an old man with a top hat (Schone Naci), a Napoleon soldier leaning on a street bench, and a Paparazzi.

Cumil 'The Watcher'

Like its sister city Prague, Bratislava has managed to conserve its pre WWI Art Nouveau heritage, despite a series of invasions, with a number of richly adorned buildings – making me wonder why don’t we make buildings like this anymore.

Art Nouveau Front Surface

Nazi Germany created the Slovak Free state at the commencement of WWII and most of its significant Jewish population perished in Nazi concentration camps. Those that survived returned to find they were not welcome and by the time the Communists came to power in 1949 most had emigrated. A monument depicting Open Doors, on the site of the old synagogue, commemorates those that never returned. It stands just below St Martin’s Cathedral and it was while here that a curious coincidence occurred – I saw graffiti of a bear on a bike and took a shot, but a cyclist crossed my vision, so I reshot it. Only later did I see what had happened – I couldn’t have captured that shot in a million years.

We walked up to 15^th Century St Martin’s Cathedral, known as the Coronation Church; for almost 300 years the Kings of Hungary were crowned here. As well the Hapsburgs, including Maria Theresa, came to this cathedral for their coronations, even though their residence remained in Vienna.

But, it was another hot day and time for a cool one as we sat at a sidewalk café in the shade, right beside the Keglevitch Palace where Beethoven gave piano lessons to ‘Babetta’ Kegelvich – he also dedicated several pieces, that he composed here, to her. We didn’t have much time; we were taking a trip out into the Slovak countryside right after lunch. So, we drank up and strolled back to the ship taking in some live music as we walked. Sadly, we didn’t get to St Elizabeth’s Church, an art nouveau gem known as the Little BlueChurch, but that gives us reason to come back.

Old Slovak National Theatre in Hviezdoslav Square

Medieval Michael’s Gate

Vienna - City of Music

Vienna Transport

On the evening that we cruised towards Vienna, the ship’s crew put on a show for us; on our Nile cruise we’d had to provide the entertainment – both ways were fun, though. We got to see a skit about office work from the cruise director and the barman, as well as a Philipino song and dance routine from the kitchen staff – guys we’d never seen before! As the acts came to a close the event turned into a disco where even the Captain danced. It was a friendly affair, but off to one side, I got into an argument over of all things Johann Strauss. My fellow cruiser was adamant that Strauss was no artist and that his music was worthless drivel. I said, “No one’s saying he’s Brahms, but I think Strauss’s music makes you just want to get up and dance.”

Vienna Opera House

For the evening of our day in Vienna, Carol and I had bought tickets to the optional concert ($90/£50 each). I thought it unlikely that we’d hear the earth move, but we just couldn’t pass up an opportunity to hear live Classical music in Vienna. In truth, I didn’t want to hear an evening of the Waltz King myself. I asked our Entertainment Director if we were going to the Vienna Opera House. “Ah, no,” she said, “you’d have to book two years in advance and pay five times as much.”

The Gates of Violence

She said we’d be going to the Palais Lobkowitz, about 2 blocks from the Opera House and that, with 90 tickets purchased on board, the evening was almost sold-out. The concert was to be just over an hour in length and included a glass of bubbly. We left our bus, entered the palace, and milled around with our glass – our Strauss-bashing friend had joined us despite his Blue Danube Waltz being on the program.

On the way, we walked across the front of the famed Café Mozart, where Graham Green wrote the Third Man, then through Albertinaplatz. This square displays the Monument Against War and Fascism, with its depiction of the gates of a Nazi concentration camp bearing its tortured and emaciated victims. As the site of a building that took a direct hit in the war killing several hundred occupants hiding in its basement, it seems appropriate here.

We were ushered into the Eroica Hall, which at only 100 seats, was filled to capacity by our cruise party, and I realized that it was in this very room that Beethoven had conducted the premiere of his Third Symphony in 1805.

Our Orchestra and Soloists

The chamber orchestra, an 8-member ensemble from the Viennese Imperial Orchestra, entered and the concert commenced. The first two light pieces were by Strauss; I wasn’t surprised and told myself the setting was the thing. But then, a soprano entered and sang an Aria. We often go to the opera and had heard sopranos, but never in a 100-seat hall, not much bigger than a classroom – it was overwhelming; my hair stood on end, no really! The evening had changed into something wonderful and unique. Later, when she was joined by a tenor and the two convincingly fought their way through an operetta piece, it seemed they’d touched my soul. Mozart, Liszt and Brahms followed and then as the Blue Danube started we realized it was almost time for our own return to the Danube, and sail to our next stop.

And there was one last surprise; on our return at around 10pm, the crew served goulash – it was delicious.

Eroica Hall Ceiling - Palais Lobkowitz

Strudel, Schnitzel and Sauvignon Blanc

Coffee and the promise of food are hard to escape in Vienna. So, as we took our walking tour we were mindful of the places we’d come back to. I know I’m not alone; after my blog last week, I’ve had several suggestions of delectable places we missed.

H&M Elevator

Our tour bus dropped us at the Hofburg Palace, for centuries the seat of power of the Hapsburg family; now the official residence and office of the Austrian President. Its statuary alone is worth the stop, and frankly, all we had time for. We trotted over to the Spanish Riding School but no tours on a Monday (the day we were there) – we waved to the famed Lipizzaner stallions, though. Our guide told us that the horses know they are superstars; maybe that’s why they didn’t wave back...

We made our way from the Palace, through small streets and narrow arcades, on our way to St Stephan’s Cathedral (Steffl). Then, we headed to a café across from the Giant’s door and stopped for a leisurely coffee and kuchen; it was delicious. We strolled across the square to the H&M store, although not to buy a T-Shirt. Our guide had told us that the locals held their breath when H&M took over this building – they feared that the historic Art Deco interior would be gutted. They needn’t have worried; it has been incorporated into the store, making it a stylish place to browse.

A stroll down the pedestrian Kärntnerstrasse, draped with florists, chocolatiers, clothing stores and gift shops revealed remarkable decorative building facades. We dodged the heat and humidity popping in and out of air-conditioned stores. I noticed that Europeans use A/C differently than in North America, though – we try to replicate room temperature, whereas in Europe, they cool it just enough to make it bearable.

 

We walked beyond the State Opera House and found a place for lunch, sitting on a patio in the shade – we order schnitzel and a glass of cool, white wine. I can only say ‘mmmmm.’

Later, as I attempted the Karlskirche stairs, Carol relaxed in a park at the Heumarkt. Beyond the fountain this park has a large Soviet-style memorial. The Soviets went to great lengths as World War II came to a close to capture Vienna, as part of their expansion or as a bargaining chip, with their other Allies (USA, UK and France). They raised this monument to honour their dead in that offensive. The Allies controlled Vienna and Austria from 1945 to 1955 and Vienna was divided into zones similar to Berlin. The beauty of the historical Viennese architecture is all the more remarkable when you consider that most of the city was razed to the ground during WWII, so it’s all been painstakingly restored.

Coffe & Strudel

Seeking shade, we walked down into Stadtpark (City Park) and into a café in the trees – it was time for coffee and strudel, and a picture with Johann Strauss! But our time had run out; it was back to the ship to dress for a sparkling night out. As we grabbed our bus we glimpsed the Riesenrad (Giant Ferris Wheel), featured in the Orson Welles’ movie, The Third Man. This symbol has dominated the skyline for 125 years.

The Vienna Riesenrad

Vienna - Religious Icons

Stephansdom showing Roof

Vienna is magnificent – one of the great cities of the world – and we had to see it in a single day… We started the day with a walking tour that concluded at the St Stephen’s Cathedral (Stephansdom or Steffl to locals); a striking building, which houses the tomb of Friedrich III (Fritz). It’s also where Mozart married his Constanze in 1782, and less than 10 years later witnessed his funeral.

Detail in Cathedral

The Steffl suffered damage from bombing in World War II, but worse; in the final days of the war, it was almost razed to the ground. As Hitler realised the Third Reich’s days were numbered he issued an edict instructing his forces to destroy all of the infrastructure of Germany and the occupied lands, so that the Allies would take possession of only ‘ScorchedEarth’. This was meant as much as a punishment for his own people. The retreating German commandant gave orders for the Steffl to be bombed to rubble but his subordinate, Captain Klinkicht, disobeyed, simply locking the cathedral and walking away to join the retreat.

Steffl’s Altar

We entered through the Giant’s Door, named for a mammoth bone found during construction. Like so many sites in Europe though, it was jostling with visitors, forcing us to waddle along as we glimpsed the treasures within.

The Dom is spectacular but I was drawn to perhaps the even more beautiful Karlskirche (St Charles Church) and its promise of magnificent views of the city; the Baroque composer Antonin Vivaldi is buried close by and Hedy Lamarr, the film star and inventor was married here in 1933. There was one snag – as anyone that knows me or has read my blogs on Croatia –I don’t really like stairs, and I didn’t have my friend Marc to help.

Karlskirche Platform

I paid my Euros and entered the church. It’s gorgeous inside, with marble and gold statuary… …and the ceilings are adorned with frescoes, like the Sistine Chapel. But there’s this huge structure in the middle – steel scaffolding supports a large box and coming from the top of this platform, and going right up through the centre of the domed ceiling, a set of stairs.

Steps to Heaven, or...

The platform was several stories high and I headed for the elevator, positioned discretely at the side. I climbed out at the top and gingerly walked out onto the centre of the platform and started to climb the staircase – there were at least 12 sets of steps. As I climbed the first set, a family of children ran up past me, laughing without a care, but my legs were starting to quiver. Halfway up the second set, they started to feel like jelly; I was starting to panic – I looked up and said to myself “I’m not going to make it!”

I turned around and skulked back to the elevator, feeling foolish. No panorama for me. I was still unsteady as I met up with Carol in a park close by.

Art-Nouveau in St Francis of Assisi

Later we returned to the ship and I noticed a lovely church a short walk away. So, I strolled over there to find the St Francis of Assisi, or Mexican church. This was built around 1900 in an Art-Nouveau style as a memorial to the assassinated Empress Elisabeth (known as Sisi), wife of Emperor Franz Joseph 1. There’s an exquisite chapel to Elisabeth in the church.

Of course, the other religion in Vienna is the coffee house and it’s easy to see why. Even at 30°C, with a cup of coffee and a slice of sachertorte (Viennese chocolate cake), we sat and watched the crowds walk by. Before our walking tour had ended, our guide talked about the historic local coffee house culture and encouraged us to try a taste. Just then we passed a café sporting the famous Seattle mermaid logo: “Of course, you may take your coffee anywhere you wish,” she said, “ but, if I catch any of you in there, you are dead!”

St Francis of Assisi Church